Pioveva Sempre

I think for the last 2 and a half weeks, today (tuesday, may 18th) has been the only completely sunny day. It was a miracle!

I am sorry for my slow pace in getting up my weekend blog updates. We've been getting swarmed with work, and we are realizing we are running out of time here in Firenze, so the last thing I want to be doing is spending a lot of time updating my journal, pasting my receipts and tickets in, and blogging online. But I've managed to climb into bed a little early tonight, and I am content with writing my Roman experiences of this past weekend.

Last monday and tuesday all of our teachers decided to dump boatloads of work on us, so the first half of the week went by trying to get as much work done as possible. For photography we were told to start our final projects, which would be on a topic of our choice. I decided that I would try and put in the effort to make my project "Waking up in Italy". This idea consisted of taking photographs of the skyline in the morning and trying to capture Italians in their daily morning routines, getting coffee, reading the paper, setting up shop, baking etc. This proved to be harder than I had thought when both tuesday and wednesday I couldn't pull myself out of bed in time to catch the city waking up. What also didn't help was the groggy, rainy mornings, its been difficult getting up when there is no sun to entice you!



Anyways, despite all the rain, and the negativity from most of the group, I realized that it was week 7, which meant only 3 weeks left in gorgeous Florence with my amazing host family, and then I realized it was only bad weather. Bad weather in a great city, why are people so upset? We were still in Florence weren't we?

Walking home wednesday afternoon I got caught in a torrential downpour about 15 minutes away from home. More rain, it was normal at that point so strangely I found myself smiling widely getting drenched walking home and I loved every second of it. From then on I have found myself walking around with a giddy smile on my face because why wouldn't I? I was spending 10 weeks in Florence, one of the most beautiful cities in the world, if only I could get the rest of my classmates to realize that and appreciate both the amazing and not so amazing things of the city!

We went to Gelateria de' Medici a few times that week, meeting up with various people, trying various flavors. We obviously had amazing dinners made by Claudia, and the whole week we had Roma in our minds because we would be heading there with the class and Mauro early Friday morning. Secretly I hoped the rain would stop in Roma, because obviously things are that much better when its sunny, but even if it did rain I wasn't going to let that spoil the weekend.

Friday morning we woke up at 5:45, ate a quick breakfast and took bus 4 to SMN, we arrived in plenty of time, boarded the train with the class and relaxed until we arrived at Stazione Termini. I was very excited, especially because the entire train ride had been through rolling NOT RAINY tuscany! I was confident the skies would behave for us (at least for a little), so I wouldn't have to hear the constant complaints about the weather.

Lucky I was... When we arrived we immediately went to our hotel and checked in. Hotel Mariano behind Termini, pretty close to Santa Maria Maggiore, and definitely in a not so great part of town, very ethnic, chinese restaurants every few yards, but I was content. The rooms were nice and the continental breakfast that was included was very well stocked. Mauro gave us a half hour to go find coffee and rejuvenate before we started the real day, and thank god he had because I don't know if I would have been able to make it.


At 10:45 we started our Mauro weekend. Our first stop Santa Maria Maggiore. Our group failed at walking at the pace of Mauro, I always felt bad we were so slow so I was always the first two people behind him, which was probably 15 or so feet behind him because his little legs walk so damn quickly (I don't know how he does it). We learned about the Santa Maria Maggiore, its architectural wonders, its main artworks and chapels, Michelangelo's Cappela Sforza, (that were of course under restoration, so unable to be seen) and its importance as one of the first 4 basilicas in Roma, connected directly with the other 3 by major roads.

After Santa Maria Maggiore we went to a much smaller church a few streets down named Santa Prassede. This Basilica was much smaller, but just as beautiful as others we had visited. Inside its side chapel it held the relic of the Column of Flagellation, a piece of the column where christ was thought to be flagellated on. Incredible detail in all of the artwork and of the marble floor, and incredible windows making the perfect lighting for the Basilica.





Next stop: San Pietro in Vincoli housing the relic of St. Peter's Chains. Also Michelangelo's last version of the tomb for Pope Julius II. Moses, Rachel and Leah also within the Basilica. No stopping now! Almost noon, off to the Colosseum, quick 25 minute lunch break, ate a terrible panini because of how close we were to the Colosseum, then began our colossal tour! Having Mauro with us in the Colosseum and the churchs of Roma made me realize how much more you can appreciate and enjoy the artwork when you have background knowledge and significance, especially when its coming from a very little and animated Italian man. The Colosseum was of course GREAT, everybody enjoyed being in there and it was the first time I had seen the 95% of the class content with the present situation. We had free time to roam the greatest ruin of Roma and then we were off to the Foro Romana.



We were lead to the exit of the Foro Romana and had to walk around the perimeter to find the right entrance. It was nearing 3:00 and we were running out of time, so Mauro embarked on his mission of speaking quickly, walking quickly and only naming important sights (which is everything so that didn't really cut out time haha). We explored Ceasar's palaceon top of Palatino hill, inside the Roman Forom, we saw the Triumphal Arch of Settimius Severus, Basilica Giulia, and inside the Imperial Foro we saw the Trajan Basilica which was so huge and heavy it was obvious to us how its collapse had happened and we saw the political building of the forum.



Nearing 5:00 we were told we would have an hour break before we met up at the Quirinale to see the Caravaggio exhibit. We thought it was a pointless time to have a break so we suggested we go straight to the Caravaggio and Mauro thought that was a great idea because he was pooped and didn't wanna wait any longer either. On our way we walked past a photography gallery, lucky for us Benjamin wanted to stop and waste our hour of free time with the photography exhibit where I found a photograph with a younger version of me, and we still didn't end up getting to the Caravaggio exhibit until 6:00, so our great plan of finishing an hour early was spoiled.



The line at the Caravaggio exhibit didn't appear to be too long, but boy were we wrong. Luckily the rain had held off all day until we made it under the tented portion of the line, an hour into waiting. Everyone was starting to get delusional from being so tired, not thrilled to hear we would have to wait in line for at least an hour and 45 minutes, and to know that when we exited the exhibit to find dinner we would be in cold torrential rains, which had started as we entered the covered portion of the line.

I wasn't the happiest camper waiting in line, but I didn't complain, only to my mom when she called me while I was waiting in line, and then because she was so jealous I was about to go see the exhibit I put my tiredness behind and prepared to see what Marana and my mom always got SO excited to go see and to hear about other people going to see his art. Finally when we entered the museum two hours later, around 8:15, I was not disappointed. I had never got to see a collection of Caravaggio's works, only sporadic ones placed in churches, and before this trip I never really appreciated art. Now when I was staring at 23 of Caravaggio's canvases I realized how incredible of an artist he was, and why Marana and my mom drooled over his work. I was not at all upset we had to wait in a two hour line, although a reservation for the group would have been preferred, and I would have been able to focus more of my attention on the artwork if we weren't so tired from a full day of Mauro, but it was okay because I still appreciated his work SO much!

After the exhibit we ventured out into the rain in little groups to find restaurants. Boy were we hungry! We found a restaurant on the way back to our hotel, not the greatest, but the right price. We sat down, got water wine, bruschetta, and Phil and I split a Pizza Capriciosa (had an egg in the middle it was SO good) and a plate of Carbonara (which was just okay), but I was content to be sitting and in good company. There were not complaints at dinner, and we had a wonderful time getting soaked on the way home trying to figure out where the hotel was. I refused to take a cab, and I made everyone walk right behind me through the rain. It was entertaining! When we finally arrived I was so psyched to hop into bed and immediately fall asleep, and I was thrilled our meeting time in the morning was generously 9:50 (Mauro was more lenient than my mom! I would've been up at 8:30 with her!).

Day 2: Roma

Breakfast at the hotel, pretty delicious, although students weren't allowed to order cappuccinos, only professor and wife, so I settle for tea, wasn't a problem. Met Mauro at 9:50, left the hotel by 10:00 and made our first stop at Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli, a large, immense church situated right on Piazza della Repubblica. It was already raining which was a little bit of a disappointment but it was fine. Maruo was tired and we were moving quickly today! After we headed to Santa Maria della Vittoria, where all the art history nerds were psyched because Bernini's L'Estasi di santa Teresa d'Avila. Won't lie it was pretty impressive. Moving quickly on we stopped at Chiesa di San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane, beautiful little church, peculiar because of its elliptical plan and oval dome. After that we stopped in another Bernini church Sant'Andrea al Quirinale where we walked in on a wedding ceremony (MA, I PHOTOGRAPHED THE BRIDE!!!).



Moving on from there we walked briefly past the Fontana di Trevi, Mauro wouldn't let us stop, just walked past it so the class couldn't complain he didn't take them there! Then past the Pantheon, past Sant'Eustachio (Mauro was impressed I knew it had the best coffee), into Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi where two Caravaggios remained on the walls of a chapel.



We were slowly seeing 80% of Caravaggio's works that weekend. From there we went to Piazza Navona where he let us free for 45 minutes to have lunch then meet back at the Pantheon to go inside it.



Sam and I walked to Campo dei Fiori to find a place where we had eaten a delicious salad before. We rushed there in the pourring rain, enjoyed splitting a massive salad with corn, tomatoes, and mozzarella and then we got a piece of pizza to go ready to meet up with the group at the Pantheon at 1:00. Mauro gave us a talk about the history of the Pantheon as a Pagan church and then of its architecture and how it had been transformed. Then around 2:00 we started heading toward Villa Borghese which would be our last stop with Mauro and then we would be free for the rest of our time in Roma.

At 3:00 we entered the Galleria Borghese, I remembering how my mom had gotten squirted with a water gun by a little boy outside, and how me and my friends had posed in the garden with my dad, becoming Charlie's Angels. Great times! Mauro took us through the Gallery, not spending too much time in any room, and giving us the perfect amount of details on the contents of the museum. There were so many spectacular sculptures by Bernini which were absolutely beautiful, and so many other great pieces of art by the most prestigious Italian artists and their followers. By 4:45 we were free to go!

We walked back in small groups, my group stopping at a supermarket to by some snacks to indulge on in the hotel before we went out to dinner. We took naps, got ready and hung out in our rooms for a little, relaxing, enjoying each others company and then we went off to the Jewish ghetto and back to Il Portico where we knew we would find the best food for the best price. We had a delightful dinner with for 12 people. Only had to wait 20 minutes. Everyone was so psyched we had brought them there, I think only two people had to pay more than 12 euros for more than enough food, me being one of them because I got the Carciofi pasta special! It was well worth the extra 3 euro!

After dinner half of the group went back to the hotel (those who were waking up at 8:00 to go to the Vatican) and the other half went out to Campo dei Fiori to check out the night life. It was a great night, and lots of fun was had!

Day 3: Roma

Woke up around 9:30, went down and got breakfast, showered packed up and put our stuff in the holding room downstairs where we were told we could leave our things while we explored Roma on our final day. Guess what!? IT WASN'T RAINING! By 11:00 we had checked out, and were on our way to Piazza del Popolo to see the final Caravaggio resting in one of Santa Maria del Popolo's chapels.



In the Piazza there was a strange Polizia presentation going on for children and others. They were demonstrating the strength of their attack dogs and how well they were trained, (it was a little scary) and they had Polizia cars, choppers, bikes etc on display in the piazza. We hung around there for a little bit watching then we went into the Church. We only got a quick glance at Caravaggio's painting before we were ushered out on account of a mass beginning. From there we walked to the Vatican, I was the tour leader, showed people around. From the Vatican I made people come to Cafe San'Eustachio with me where I finally got my Cappuccino, that was SOOO good, the place was packed so we got to take our coffees to the curb and sit in the sun.


Finally, we headed back to the hotel around 4, we grabbed some food, ate outside and then waited for the group to arrive and head to the train station. The train ride back was peaceful through the country side, and the sky was doing the most interesting things it was so beautiful. Everyone was content with finally being able to relax, we were always on the go in Roma, and returning to our homes in Firenze was looking very enticing. We finally arrived home around 9:30 where the dinner left for us was a can of sweet corn (because Claudia knows how much Sam likes sweet corn) and two frozen pizzas in the freezer. Luckily we weren't hungry, so we split the can of corn, unpacked and then fell asleep FAST!

Great weekend in Roma, I still haven't gotten enough of it, and I am excited to head back with Suzanne, Alex, Bill, Jacob and Jeff. It's going to be a great time everytime I'm there... how could it not be? After all its Roma!

Costa Amalfitana questo fine settimana! A dopo!